Glues that are very good can be made by epoxies, but the user must understand several things about epoxy glue.
Why is a great paste? Generally a merchandise thick enough to hang on a surface that is vertical rather than to ‘run off’ amount surfaces. If it has some flex/give, which is a great thing too – contract etc. can enlarge, Of course, it should also be watertight.
Epoxies come in various amount of flexing, and several thicknesses. Nevertheless, epoxy glue, say to bond two pieces of wood together, are frequently only ‘regular’ epoxy (normally the ‘marine’ epoxy used by boat builders) with thickeners mixed in to make them in a paste or gel. Occasionally the user will first coat the surfaces with epoxy that is unthinned and then apply the epoxy that is thickened.
One word of warning when gluing with epoxies. Epoxy glue joints failure is more often than not the end result of over clamping. Too much clamp pressure and each of the epoxy can be squeezed from the joint. When using as a paste unlike most other glues, don’t over clamp.
Epoxy “glues” – sometimes called “epoxy goo“, offered by Progressive epoxy polymers.
In the good old days when folks that built things like furniture and boats and houses really knew what they were doing, they would pick wood according to the grain so that the expansion and contraction would work together as a system. If it had been really going to warp, upwards against gravity or backwards would warp against the cement. So it would warp left/right instead of up/down wood making up a panel was cut. Specific joints were pasted, others others left floating to allow for move. They knew the difference between a staple or a nail or a screw or a dowel and the way they held or did not hold. Those days are gone.
That is what’s happened, when you view a little bit of furniture split at the seams. The expansion because of moisture or temperature has exceeded the shear strength of the adhesive also it divides. It might warp like a pretzel in case the shear strength of the glue was more powerful.
Another means to minimizing this is either aging and stabilizing the wood before it’s closing grinding and shaping (which doesn’t happen any more) or using regional wood which has stabilized over time for a specific place (which also does not occur anymore).
Along with fitting the hardness of the paste to the substance and chemical compatibility of the glue to the top, there is also adhesive joint “design.”
Roughing up a surface not only makes it possible for the glue to penetrate (in the instance of a porous surface) but also raises the effective surface area by several percentage. The cleaner as well as the more abraded it’s, the larger portion of the accessible area the glue can stick to.
You know those joints…they break and you will view the paste was just sticking to 50 percent of the area? That happens on a microscopic amount too. When the surface is not prepped properly or a filler isn’t used to fill in the gaps, you end up with the surface being grabbed by only a percentage of the molecules. It is like velcro: the harder you knead it and push on it together, the more hooks that catch, and also the more challenging it’s to pull apart. This really is just what is happening at the joint-glue interface.